Restoran Tuck Kee

Each meal surpasses the last. It is witchcraft. The kitchen sorcerer this night works at Restoran Tuck Kee, located in the middle of the 10-square-block slice of restaurant heaven that is central Ipoh.

Perfectly steamed baby octopus in garlic oil, with a chili dipping sauce. What a treat.

Braised chicken feet in an anise gravy. Feet have lots of bones, so this is a pretty messy finger food. As if on cue, my favorite bag lady makes the rounds with her lottery tickets, and I buy another packet of napkins from her. She says, "I love you."

These fried Hokkien noodles, with pork, shrimp and chicken, are the star of the evening. I'm pretty sure they're fried in pork lard because with every bite I involuntarily said, "Oh, my god." I wouldn't confuse this with Singaporean fried noodles, which are considerably thinner and drier. This mee hon has a charred, barbecue-type flavor. I wish I knew how they accomplished that. If you come to Ipoh even for a half-day, get these noodles!

I don't know why I order so much food, but it's been a constant of this trip. I see a menu and just can't control myself.

A "B" health rating is pretty good, right?

Make sure you go to the Tuck Kee on the left. Ignore the cheap imitator a couple of doors down. Just kidding; that place is probably great, too.

A couple of cops "guard" this part of the street. To make visitors feel safe? I dunno. I am sure bad things happen in Ipoh, but it seems like a Malaysian Mayberry to me.